Harness Integra

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Harness Integra
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Danger is always present in auto racing. Race car drivers recognize the danger and take steps to reduce the risks. Aside from staying alert, the drivers ensure that their race cars are equipped with various safety devices. For the next auto racing season, this is how safety is prepared in the Acura Integra. The underlying principles in safety preparation can also be applied in other race cars.

Structure

The car already has a well-built 8-point welded-in roll cage from The ROLLCAGEGUY in Akron Ohio. I plan to add a few more bars and reinforcements before next season because I never feel quite safe enough. The bars will also serve to add some structural rigidity to the chassis. The driver's side features NASCAR style door bars that extend into the door cavity close to the outer skin. The original factory door beams are still in place. NASA allows the removal of the factory door beams if NASCAR style beams are installed with the cage. My personal opinion is that the factory beams should be left in place, at least on the driver's side.

The material used for the Integra factory beams is several times stronger than the mild steel tubing used in most amateur race car's roll cages and is required, by US Federal motor vehicle safety regulation 214, to resist a load equal to two times the curb weight of the vehicle during the first 18 inches of deformation when crushed with a 12 inch diameter steel ram. If the beam is removed from the door, you are left with a sheet metal shell typically constructed of steel less than one millimeter thick and that will provide essentially no crush resistance.

The other structural element that I've seen to be the target for weight removal in some Integras and Civics is the side center pillar gusset. This is a large steel reinforcement that bolts to the rear seat cross member and extends to the base of the center pillar (right below where the front row factory seat belt retractors mount). I'm not sure if the NASA rules explicitly allow the removal of these parts. The gussets serve to reinforce and anchor the base of the pillar and provide a substantial amount of crush resistance to the side of the vehicle during an impact. They should never be removed under any circumstance.

Fire

I'll be installing a Safecraft fire system this winter. Hand held extinguishers are legal but I'd prefer not to have to fumble around unlatching and aiming an extinguisher in the event of a fire. It is much simpler to just pull the release handle. The system uses Halon 1301, which is toxic if inhaled, but doesn't leave a residue when deployed. Hopefully I never have to use it.

Seat

I'm currently using the HRP Racing Products aluminum road-racing seat. It's essentially a Kirky deluxe road-racing seat with the HRP logo and fire resistance cover. It's a nice seat but NASA rule changes in 2007 require the use of a head restraint seat and/or a head restraint net (right side containment net). I could have kept the seat and just added the net but I like the combination of the head restraint seat and net and feel that it will provide the best level of safety.

I purchased a Racetech RT-4009WTHR seat with head restraint and their Viper side net through Harrison Motorsports. This model has provisions for a back support, which is unusual for a composite seat. We'll add an article later outlining the seat installation process.

Restraint/Harness

I'm currently using a Schroth 6-point with quick release latch. It is FIA-approved so it only has to be replaced every 5 years versus approximately every two to three years for an SFI-approved harness. I have used TeamTech harnesses up until 2005 when I purchased a HANS device. I wasn't comfortable with how the 3-inch shoulder straps of the Teamtech harness fit over the HANS device so I switched to the Schroth unit with more HANS compatible 2-inch wide shoulder webbing. Teamtech now offers a HANS compatible harness with 2-inch shoulder straps and I like the additional features they offer such as pelvis and thorax padding and a torso strap so I might be switching back soon.

HANS Device

If you enjoy having your head properly attached to your neck, this is a good investment. I don't think it will be too much longer before it becomes a requirement in SCCA and NASA club events. It's pricey but it is a relative bargain when compared to the alternatives. If your racing budget won't accommodate the purchase of the HANS (Head and Neck Restraint System) or a similar device then you should stop racing until it does. If you have a friend that competes in a different class you can always share the HANS. The helmet mounting tabs are inexpensive so this would be a reasonable way to stay safe on a budget.

Find Nike Sasquatch Clone Golf Clubs

This is your guide to find Nike SasQuatch clone golf clubs to save you money, suit your game, and utilize technology used by the best golfer in the world, Tiger Woods, in addition to professional golfers K.J. Choi, Rory Sabbatini, Stewart Cink and many other touring professionals.

Over the last two years, Nike Golf has introduced its SasQuatch line of golf clubs including the following: SasQuatch Sumo Squared Driver, SasQuatch Sumo Driver and SasQuatch Fairway Woods. This is no surprise as all golf manufacturers must keep inventing new golf club styles and technology advancements to stay competitive. Below you will find great choices of Nike SasQuatch clone golf clubs.

The Nike SasQuatch Sumo Squared Driver offers a unique shape and extremely high moment of inertia. This results in superior forgiveness and long, straight results on off-center hits. The deep beta titanium face combined with a titanium body and composite crown to create weight savings that are distributed into the square design. All this generates a driver that is longer and more responsive. This driver is the current choice of professional golfer KJ Choi.

The following driver golf clones offer you great alternatives to the Nike SasQuatch Sumo Squared Driver at a fraction of the price:

Integra SV3 Driver - With the latest design geometry in the golf industry, the Integra SV3 Driver produces a shot with maximum forgiveness. The square design places more weight behind the face at the heel and toe positions. Along with the scalloped crown, this produces a very low center of gravity creating a higher launch angle with a low spin rate. The square head also increased the club head's ability to resist twisting during off-center hits.

Tour Plus Tubby Square Driver - The Tour Plus Tubby Square Driver utilizes square technology which is designed to increase driving accuracy. This technology works by moving the weight further back on the driver and closer to the heel and toe, thus the square shape.

Turbo Power Kumo Square Titanium Driver - The Turbo Power Kumo Square Driver has square design technology that moves the weight further back on the driver and more towards the heel and toe. Testing has shown this square design will improve your accuracy on mis-hit shots.

The Nike SasQuatch Sumo Driver features an all-titanium head and an extremely high moment of inertia. This design has created the ideal ratio between the width of the clubface and the depth of the club head. The Nike SasQuatch Sumo geometry pushes the breadth-to-face length ratio up, resulting in a larger sweet spot.

Two other great choices to harness this technology and can save you money are:

Tour Plus Tubby Inertia Driver - With its center of gravity set low and deep, this driver is a highly engineered titanium driver that brings together size, power, forgiveness and workability. Forgiveness is achieved by increasing the club head's resistance to twisting during off-center hits. Power comes from a taller and wider sweet spot. Workability is achieved with a more traditional shape allowing players to control their trajectory and ball path. All of the benefits create a higher launch angle, lower spin and longer distances with excellent control.

Integra SV2 Plus Driver - The Integra SV2 Plus Driver is very hard not to hit straight. A key to this driver is how it maximizes moment of inertia, the ability to push weight as far away from the center of gravity as possible. This, along with the scalloped crown, produces a very low center of gravity creating a higher launch angle with a low spin rate.

The Nike SasQuatch Fairway Woods have a powerful new geometry in which the breadth of the head has been expanded with PowerBow technology to move the center of gravity farther back, resulting in maximum distance and higher launch.

Some of the great Nike SasQuatch Fairway Wood clones include the following:

Tour Plus Nessie Fairway Woods - The Tour Plus Nessie Fairway Woods are designed with a high launch angle and optimum spin rates. To help improve initial launch and velocity, the internal weighting has been moved to the rear. The wider sole print allows for greater forgiveness on mis-hit shots. It has a midsized head design makes the club very forgiving and also a low center of gravity helps to get ball airborne.

Dynacraft Avatar Fairway Woods - The Dynacraft Avatar Fairway Woods are available in a variety of lofts from a traditional 3-wood to a 15-wood for those who find fairway woods easier to hit than irons. They have a triple internal weighting located in the rear of the sole to produce both straighter shots and a higher launch angle.

These are a few of the many Nike clone golf clubs on the market today. With so many alternatives to choosing higher priced brand name clubs, considering clone golf clubs makes a lot of sense for many golfers.

About the Author

Darren Finger is a golf enthusiast who owns http://www.clone-golf-club-advisor.com, a comprehensive website that is the ultimate online guide about clone golf clubs. For more information about Nike clone golf clubs, visit the site today!

95 integra auto to manual conversion issues (wont start).?

Im putting in a gsr motor and trans into my 95 integra. the motor and tranny came with a chipped obd1 manual ecu and the original obd2 motor harness and accesories. The problem im having is that A. my fuel pump is'nt priming and B. when i crank it i get absolutly 0 spark. I've even hard wired the distributer to the ecu using a pinout for each just to double check and i also checked the internals and everything seems fine other than im not getting a ground to my coil. One thing i've noticed when i ground out the white wire (crank position sensor signal i think) is that my pump primes and i throw a cel for a few seconds. even while thats grounded out it still wont start.

These websites have the pinouts and diagrams i have been using
http://technet.ff-squad.com/
http://www.phearable.net/tech/

you should try useing team-integra.net they can help you a bunch

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